I was in Frankfurt, Germany once.
I hadn't thought about that trip in
years. Until I heard Mrs. Chana Silver speak in synagogue on the
Fast of Tisha b'Av. She leads tours of Poland for young women.
They see the places where Jews lived and where they died – cities,
ghettos, graveyards, and the work and death camps.
I was there forever ago, when I was in
my 20s. Long before anything Jewish had touched my life, except I
had, for some unknown reason, read Hitler's Mein Kamp. I had
gone to London with a backpack, a round trip ticket and $100 in my
pocket.
I went with a group of my friends and I
knew they had arranged inexpensive or free places for us to stay. So
I really only needed money for me to eat. Still $100 wasn't enough
money and I knew it. The closest thing to being out of the US I had
been at that point in my life was crowding 5 people into one of the
original VW Beetles, and road tripping to the California border town
- Tiajuna, Mexico. I didn't know when, or if, I would get another
chance to go to Europe. I guess I hoped my friends, who were probably
every bit as broke as me, wouldn't let me starve, so I shrugged my
shoulders and I went. Dumb or ballsy. Nah, definitely dumb.
We were supposed to do a musical play
called Viet Rock at the Edinburgh Scotland Theatre Festival
Fringe (the part where anyone can show up and do a show). We were
young, crazy and running on more hash than food. As well as, how
shall I put this delicately, extremely sexually active with
interchangeable partners in the group. What can I say? We were
California kids, with delusions of being hippies. We were in a
foreign country, living and working together 100% of the time. It
went about as well as you would expect. In one of the inevitable
seismic social shifts, the lead in show ended up being given to a
person who was one, convinced she couldn't really sing and two, had
crippling stage fright the size of the state of Texas. Yup, that
would be me. I lasted about two rehearsals before I melted down and
quit after the girl I had replaced complained to everyone that I was
off-key. Which, to be fair, I probably was. So at least partly
because of me, the group completely imploded at that point and we
never did the shows.
We had some time on our hands, so half
dozen of us took off for the Continent, with no specific destination
in mind. We took a train as far as Frankfort. Then my friends decided
to go on to the Black Forest. Because of the cake I think.
I had been getting more and more
uncomfortable from the time we crossed the border and I was in a low
level state of panic by the time we got off the train. I can't really
describe how it felt. It was like I couldn't breathe and I knew I
couldn't be there, even though I had no idea why. So I refused to
continue to the Black Forest. And they left me. I can't really blame
them. I wasn't their responsibility and I had just ruined the reason
we had come in the first place. Plus we were at an age, and in a
time, when we thought a woman could hitchhike by herself and be safe
doing it.
So there I was. By myself. In a country
where I didn't know anyone or speak the language. With almost no
money. Again dumb on my part or ballsy. No again, definitely dumb.
But I can still feel the way I felt then, uncomfortable and short of
breath. I had to get out of there.
I took what little money I still had,
and went back to the train station. I kept enough for the ferry back
to the UK, counted the rest and figured out I could get as far as
Luxembourg. Wherever - as long it was out of Germany and in the
general direction of “back to the coast”. I breathed a sigh of
relief when I crossed the border a couple of hours later. I felt as
if something had fallen away.
In a continuation
of “let's see how dumb I can be”, I took a ride with an Austrian
trucker who bought me some really excellent sausage and bean soup
(which I'm sure I couldn't eat now) and later tried to get me into
the bed built into the cab of his truck. Who even knew there were
beds there? When I politely declined, he dumped me by the side of the
road, in the middle of the night, and I ended up sort of sleeping in
a field. There were a lot of little animals resenting this human in
their field and I could hear them moving around all night. None of
them joined me in the sleeping bag, but worrying that they might
accounts for the “sort of” slept. I also had a, thankfully, very
short visit from four guys who stopped and stared at me from the
road. I stared back and they moved on. Perhaps I should say I was
dumb and lucky. The next morning I was able to get a ride to Calais.
Later everyone
re-grouped in London and we went off to the place where I developed
my terror of crowds. A rock festival on the Isle of Wight where I
spent a week with half a million people (& heard Jimi Hendrix,
The Doors, The Who, poor Kris Kristofferson who got booed off the
stage by a rock and roll crowd who had no interest in country, Sly of
Sly & the Family Stone, who could barely walk but could still
sing, & a long list of other legendary musicians). I also dealt
with continual noise and people moving, restrooms that were trenches
in the ground, and having the only space I could call my own be the
area on the ground my sleeping bag covered. The music was amazing.
The rest of it, not so much.
But the really
weird thing is, none of the above were the weirdest thing that
happened on that trip.
My mother saw my
friend's mother hugging her when we were saying good-bye at the
airport and she awkwardly hugged me. That is the only time I
can remember her hugging me. In my life.
Freaking out in two
countries? Hitchhiking by myself? Living with 500,000 people? Nope.
That was the weirdest thing that happened.